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Spring
Rate Mechanics. Life can be
tedious enough already without a harsh ride. So what’s this
all about? Text & Photography: NICK
BUTLER
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All
of us have seen, used, or are using super-short coil-over
shock absorber units. This minimalist movement started when
the pillars of American rodding decided it would be real neat
to shrink the most vital component of a car’s suspension
down to a size that makes a Roman chariot look like it has
suspension. Since then followers of fashion have been paying
dearly for the privilege. If your politics dictate that if
“they” do it, it must be right and you must follow,
save yourself some time and read no further. If, however,
you believe there might be a better way this article may give
you food for thought. |
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BASICS
Before we look at how and why we set up a suspension system,
let’s remind ourselves of the absolute fundamentals.
We need suspension to cushion out bumps and to prevent wheels
leaving the ground every time the vehicle hits a bump or dip
in the road. If suspension settings are too stiff neither
of these requirements are satisfied (most of us have seen
Fl cars balancing on three wheels when they get a puncture
- their suspension is very stiff), whilst if the settings
are too soft we need a lot of suspension movement (and corresponding
ground clearance) to stop the axles bottoming out on their
bump stops. Body roll also becomes a problem.
Ignoring the intricacies of geometry for the moment, what
the suspension sees when it hits a bump is a vertical acceleration
directly proportional to the size of the bump and the speed
at which the car hits it (large bump at high speed = large
acceleration). The spring’s job is to absorb that acceleration
by turning it into potential energy. It does this by compressing,
then as the acceleration is reduced or removed it extends
back to its normal length and thereby releases that stored
energy by restoring the vehicle to its normal ride height.
The shock absorber’s job is to slow the whole process
and stop the car oscillating up and down.
COMPROMISES
Our suspension must therefore compromise between:
1. too soft or too hard.
2. Not enough or too much roll resistance.
3. Overall suspension characteristics.
Our Fl car analogy can he further extended by comparing it
with a mid-’60s American sponge wagon. Both represent
no-compromise approaches to two opposed requirements. The
job of the suspension on the Fl car is to make the car corner
as quickly as possible and at the same time restrict the change
in height between the underside of the car and the road surface
for optimum ground effect. Because suspension travel is restricted
so much the spring rates are extremely high in order to prevent
bottoming out as much as possible. Why does this matter if
driver comfort is of no consequence?
Simple, every action has an equal and opposite reaction. If
the suspension hits the stops hard the car will leap off the
ground and if that bump happens to be on a corner, the next
time the wheels contact terra firma the car might already
be in the scenery. The uncomfortable ride that results from
the above is in direct contrast to the Chevy cruising down
to the local burger bar. Its marshmallow suspension settings
can be viewed as follows:
1. Plenty of travel to absorb large bumps without transferring
energy through to the passengers.
2. Soft springs allowable because of large amount of travel.
3. Plenty of ground clearance to give full rein to the suspension.
4. Soft acting shock absorbers to prevent artificially hardening
up the springs.
5. The anti-roll bars must be equally soft to prevent the
independent suspension units tying together too much, hence
-
6. Body roll when cornering.
7. Pitching occurs over transverse ridges or when coming to
a sudden stop.
We don’t need to use our imagination very much to realise
that the suspension settings in the two cars give one that
corners on rails but is damned uncomfortable and one that
glides along is if it were airborne but responds badly to
changes in direction
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SUSPENSION
REQUIREMENTS CHECKLIST
1. Are you going to run your car super low? (ie, 2 to
3” ground clearance), if the answer is yes you
will need high spring rates to prevent bottoming out
and bump stops set to limit the suspension movement
in order to maintain some ground clearance at full bump.
2. Are you committed to running super short shock absorbers?
If the answer is yes then again you will have to run
high spring rates in order to prevent the unit bottoming
out over the smallest of bumps.
3. Do you want more than 3” to 4” suspension
travel? If yes, then you will need a shock absorber
with a corresponding amount of travel unless you incline
the unit at
an angle or build mechanical advantage into the system.
More on this later.
4. Do you want a comfortably soft ride? Then you will
need relatively low spring rates along with adequate
amounts of travel to allow the suspension to work off
the bumps.
5. Do you want to reduce bump thump (The tremendous
crash felt if you hit a pothole)? If you are using coil-over-shocks
you won’t reduce it because the bushes in the
shock eyes have to be very stiff to withstand the constant
compressive load they experience from the moment you
fit them (some shockers are fitted with Rose bearings
which give the harshest ride of all).
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BUSHES
If you are wise enough to fit separate shocks and springs
then shock eyes can be selected with big soft rubber bushes
which give your suspension the best chance of absorbing that
huge impact that occurs in a fraction of a second. Whilst
on the subject of bushes it’s worth remembering that
the big boys (GM,Ford etc.) spend literally millions on the
design of these little rubber bushes. Some of you may remember
an in phrase back in the early ‘70s - ‘void bushes’.
As a result of their enormous investment to improve passenger
comfort Ford realised that they could “tune” the
frequency response (and absorption) rate of suspension bushes
by moulding in little pockets. If you look at modern day items
you’ll notice a plethora of pockets and bump ridges
which go to make the bush soft in normal use andharder in
extreme conditions. |
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Some
are even directional in that they are softer in one direction
than another.
In the light of this overwhelming evidence, can even the toughest
guy on the street not swallow very hard when he elects to
heave out “those old fuddy-duddy rubber bushes”
and pushes in a pair of his favourite coloured plastic ones? |
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SPRING
RATES
Spring rates are generally referred to in lbs
per inch. Typically a front spring on an average street rod
may be 400lb/in. However, if we incline our favourite coil-over
shock absorber unit we will affect the spring rate seen by
the wheel. Likewise if the shock lower eye fixing is placed
inboard of the outer wishbone/spindle swivel joint, then this
mechanical advantage will reduce the rate seen by the wheel.
This reduction in rate is also accompanied by an increase
in the amount of travel at the wheel relative to shock absorber
movement. Some sharp talking salesmen will say that’s
all you need to do to make a short shock absorber unit (typically
with just 2” travel) work. What they hesitate to point
out (even if they know) is that the inclining trick produces
a geometry pitfall that requires very high spring rates. Additionally
this set-up will at most give you a linear compression of
the spring with wheel movement. This is not ideal. Why? Remember
we learned that large compressions of the suspension are the
result of hitting large bumps at high speeds. The ideal way
to resolve these impacts is with a rate which increases and
thereby delays or prevents the car from hitting the stops
- the worst thing that can happen. Production cars frequently
use progressively wound springs which bunch up as they compress.
At the very least the spring is mounted vertically so the
rate remains the same rather than decreasing. The two other
significant pitfalls are that firstly, the linear rate syndrome
does nothing to resist body roll in cornering and secondly,
over loading of springs can occur. |
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SAFE STRESS
This leads us onto safe stress:
Every spring has a maximum safe stress that cannot be exceeded
if it is to recover to its original length over its expected
lifetime. For example, the allowable working stress for a
coil spring made from 1/2” diameter chrome vanadium
wire is around 100,000 lbs./sq.in. under average service conditions.
The formula for calculating the stress is:
Load x mean coil diam.
0.393 x (wire diam to power of 3)
Let’s run some average figures through
this formula and see there is still more gloom associated
with the All American Dream set up. Assume our small block
powered car weighs 2500 lbs with 60% over the front wheels,
i.e. 750 lbs. per front wheel. Now build in the short shocks
at an angle and inboard of the outer swivel to give, say,
2:1 advantage (2” of wheel movement gives 1” of
shock/spring movement).
Our 400lb/in. spring with 8 coils and an inside diameter of
2 1/4” has a wire diameter of around 0.43”. So
for every inch of compression (produced by 400lbs of load)
the spring will experience 34,304 lbs/sq.in. stress. Our maximum
safe stress is exceeded as we pass 2.92” compression
.
To support the weight of the
car the spring must compress:
750x2 3.75”
400
We have therefore exceeded the safe stress of the spring before
the car has even started to roll.
The accepted remedy as our over stressed spring begins to
settle (permanently compress) is to fit ever stiffer springs.
This is all very well if you want stiff suspension with minimum
travel but if you don’t, what next?
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THE
COMFORTABLE OPTION
If we look back at the stress formula you’ll notice
that if you decrease the load and/or increase the wire diameter
you’ll decrease the stress in the spring. This is the
key to softening up suspension. Before diving head first into
yet more theory, take a break and think of your daily beater
- Escort, Astra, Golf - they all use McPherson strut front
suspension. The spring acts directly with the wheel (1”
wheel movement = 1” spring movement) The spring will
also be a lot larger than our coil-over shock spring in diameter.
The resultant spring rate will be low - typically less than
300 lb/in. The travel will be high - typically around 6”.
And what have you got? A nice comfortable ride. Yet again
compromise confronts us. The larger springs and longer shock
absorber units are bulky and therefore more difficult to package
neatly. This may not matter on your fat fendered Ford, but
on an open-wheeled |
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roadster
it certainly won’t look racy. To make the springs direct
acting you have to mount them as outboard as possible (i.e.
closer to the wheel). This again does nothing for the neat
package devotee. |
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ROADSTERS, HI-TECH AND ALL THAT
Open-wheeled cars confront
our obsession with neatness. As one of our customers said
recently, “I know it (short, inclined coil-over unit)
doesn’t work as well but I want it ‘cos it looks
good.”
For years I’ve taken a keen interest in race car trends
knowing these projectiles represent the forefront of handling
and design. By mellowing out some of the more extreme elements,
principles of their suspension design have been incorporated
in many Auto Imagination projects, in most cases without adding
to cost or complexity, but merely packaging the same components
more sensitively. It would seem, at last, that other street
rod enthusiasts are starting to look beyond the accepted style
boundaries. Two cars I judged at the excellent American Speed
& Custom Show had inboard cantilever suspension systems
enabling the builder’s to unclutter their corners and
choose optimum spring sizes,
rates and geometry settings. By so doing they certainly received
full points for innovation and clean looks and, if they did
their sums correctly, have been rewarded by sweet handling
cars too.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Now you’ve started to understand why the various elements
of suspension affect ride quality so much, you can choose
your compromises wisely and benefit from a free handout in
the comfort department. Even the smallest changes really do
have significant pro’s and con’s. It makes so
much sense to select the parts on merit, not just on how trendy
they happen to be. If you’re building a full-bodied
car there can be no excuse for not building a suspension that
gives you a comfortable ride. Even with the bulk of larger
springs and shocks, with thoughtful packaging the whole assembly
can be tucked behind inner wheel wells. The bottom line is,
surely no one can excuse exchanging spring rates for comfort.
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